New Zealand, 2008 — Part 2
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On Tasman Bay
The beach at Rose's home on Tasman Bay
At the end of the last page, we were in Motueka, not quite sure what to do next. As things turned out, we cycled only a few kilometres on Friday, March 7, and found ourselves in paradise.
We had been in contact with Rosemary Jones, a Servas host in Kaiteriteri, a village just 15 kilometres or so from Motueka. Uncertain whether to head north right away, we telephoned and Rose agreed to put us up. In fact she stopped for a very quick visit at the Motueka Top 10 in the evening, on her way through town with some other Servas guests.
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We aimed to leave for Rose's on Friday, late in the morning, after our return to the cycle path. While we were doing some last-minute shopping, a nice woman on a bicycle stopped to talk with us. She said her husband and a number of other people in the Nelson area were interested in recumbents. Not too much later, a man on a home-built trike rode up. He was Richard Middleton, a professional calligrapher. His wife Heidi, a doctor, was the woman who had spoken to us a bit earlier. Apparently, when she reached her office she called Richard and sent him out to find us. He invited us home for tea, and we enjoyed riding with him, trying his recumbent trike, and seeing his collection of bicycle projects. A skilled welder with an interest in recumbents can make all sorts of things!
Richard on one of his home-built trikes |
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After saying goodby to Richard, we headed for Kaiteriteri. The road twisted over short, steep hills with enticing views of the sea, and the weather was perfect. In the village itself there were hordes of tourists drawn by a lovely beach and many boating and hiking opportunities. We carried on a couple more kilometres and turned into the drive for Rose's house. We slid and slipped down a steep gravel lane that went down and down for a kilometre. We wondered if we would be able to cycle back out. But when we reached the end, we wondered if we would ever want to.
Two or three kilometres before Kaiterteri |
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| Rose's home is part of a small family
compound called Ngaio Farm, on its own stretch of the most beautiful,
golden sands imaginable. There are rocky promontories at either
end of the long beach and Ngaio Island not far offshore. Steep,
blue hills are visible on much of the horizon, and to make everything
perfect, the clear waters of Tasman Bay are refreshingly cool, but
not too cold for enjoyable swimming. Add to that a couple of the
clearest, sunniest days we'd seen, and this really was paradise. |
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 Left: View at dawn from our bedroom window Above: Path from the house to the beach |
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The Oblligatory Group Photo |
On our last day, after some obligatory
time on the beach, Rose drove us to Marahau, where we visited a gallery
with striking wood sculptures. Water taxis come and go from Marahau,
taking hikers to various points along the Abel Tasman Track. However,
when the tides are low at Marahua, the water taxis are grounded so far
offshore that tractors are used to haul the boats and their passengers
over the flats.
 Whimsy at the gallery in Marahau |
 Stunning wood carvings in the outdoor gallery |
 Tractors hauling boats at low tide, Marahau ... |
 ... and along the road, with passengers aboard! |
Partly as a result of encouragement from Rose's cousin Richard, who is an avid cyclist, we decided to carry on over Takaka Hill to Golden Bay. Dreading the climb, we left all our camping gear, the computer, and some of our clothing at Rose's. On Monday, April 10, we set out with some trepidation on the 58 kilometre ride over Takaka Hill.
Dawn of our departure for Takaka Hill and Golden
Bay